Attention! Do not even think about repairing a turbocharger at home.
Attention! You can replace a faulty turbocharger with a new one without much difficulty.
Not so long ago, there were those days when a car with a turbocharger was automatically ranked among the sportiest, most charged and, of course, the most expensive.
A huge distance has been covered over the past 15 years, and today it is practically impossible to find a modern engine that does not have a similar unit next to it.
Despite the fact that turbocharger parts operate at temperatures up to 800°C and speeds of 50,000–85,000 rpm, they are quite reliable. However, they also wear out and age, and the first turbocharging units (they became really massive 5-7 years ago) already fail and, sometimes, this is accompanied by serious consequences.
However, it is not always necessary to blame the turbocharger for the engine suddenly losing power. The reason for this may be a banal clamp that has weakened and flown off the pipeline, or a broken seal.
Most often, however, the cause of a decrease in the power of the power unit is a faulty turbocharger. You should not try to repair it, but replacing it is quite within the power of most of the common cars.
The most difficult - "charged" sports models, especially those equipped with twin turbochargers. The standard work to replace them at the dealer in this case is calculated for 12 hours. For models of this complexity, it is recommended not to even think about repairing at home, and many of the professionals refuse to take it on if they do not have a complete set of necessary tools and fixtures.
However, don't give up and give up early. On most models, the replacement of the turbocharger can be done by yourself. The main problem will be engine compartments crowded with aggregates with limited access to the engine.
Sleight of hand and an S-wrench will help here better than any special tools.
Like any repair job, replacing a turbocharger requires focus and method. Start by freeing access to the units from pipelines, wires and other auxiliary components. You will need a lot of free space, as you will need to rent four (sometimes three) exhaust manifold nuts, downpipe, three oil supply and drain pipes, and all air supply pipes. Water-cooled turbochargers are even more difficult because of the additional parts.
One of the inevitable companions of a turbocharger's life is high operating temperatures. As a result, the nuts of fastening to the exhaust manifold "are welded" almost completely and require a significant amount of WD 40 before working with them. After replacing the main unit, it is imperative to replace the nuts with new ones made of stainless steel. If they are made of ordinary steel, then next time it will probably be almost impossible to unscrew them.
The studs can turn a few turns when loosening the nuts, or even come out completely. Carefully check for distortion or damage to the threads. If this happens, restore the thread and screw the studs into place until they stop.
Not all turbocharger designs include a gasket at the junction with the exhaust manifold. Therefore, do not be surprised if you did not find it when dismantling this unit on your car. If there was a gasket, be sure to install a new one during subsequent assembly.
After removing the turbocharger, check all freed oil lines. To do this, ask someone to turn on the starter (by removing the high-voltage wires from the engine to prevent it from starting), and make sure that the oil is supplied freely. After installing the new turbocharger, repeat this procedure to ensure that oil reaches its bearings before "real" work. Turbocharger bearings without oil - even for a second, this is the worst thing he can experience in his life!